My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #5: Shepherd’s Crag, Borrowdale
/Ideas by Chris, words by Anne
Shepherd’s Crag is one of the busiest crags in the Lake District, and deservedly so. It has everything:
- easy access
- quality routes across a wide range of grades
- quick-drying rock
- a mix of single pitch and multi pitch routes
- a fantastic position overlooking Derwentwater
- a great café right next to the car park
What’s not to like?
Here are a few of my favourite routes to get you started
Donkey’s Ears
First climbed: 1947 / Current grade: HS** / Length of route: 67m / Number of pitches: 3
A somewhat meandering route with some interesting moves and a decisive final pitch
Little Chamonix
First climbed: 1946 / Current grade: VD*** / Length of route: 71m / Number of pitches: 4
The uber-classic of the crag, with great positions on the top wall, a few tricky moves to get you thinking. A must if you don’t mind waiting in the queue.
Brown Slabs Direct
First climbed: 1948 / Current grade: VD*** / Length of route: 36m / Number of pitches: 1
Well-worn but great climbing – gets lots of sun so a good choice on a cold day
The Bludgeon
First climbed: 1957 / Current grade: E1 5b*** / Length of route: 54m / Number of pitches: 2
Not to be underestimated, great climbing in a fantastic position
Fisher’s Folly
First climbed: 1955 / Current grade: VS 4c*** / Length of route: 25m / Number of pitches: 1
Can be done as one pitch or two, but watch out for rope drag if you do it in one
Kransic Crack Direct
First climbed: 1956 / Current grade: HVA 5a*** / Length of route: 20m / Number of pitches: 1
Excellent climbing, well-protected and varied
Adam
First climbed: 1955 / Current grade: HVS 5a*** / Length of route: 40m / Number of pitches: 1
Strenuous and direct, but well-protected
Eve
First climbed: 1951 / Current grade: VS 4c*** / Length of route: 50m / Number of pitches: 3
More technical than Adam, with some great moves
MGC
First climbed: 1958 / Current grade: E2 5c** / Length of route: 20m / Number of pitches: 1
Popular, steep, strenuous, needs a positive approach
Brown Crag Grooves
First climbed: 1959 / Current grade: E1 5b** / Length of route: 40m / Number of pitches: 2
A sustained pitch, take lots of Rock no 1’s
Finale
First climbed: 1965 / Current grade: HVS 5a*** / Length of route: 34m / Number of pitches: 2
Top end HVS, strenuous and sustained with good gear
Ardus
First climbed: 1946 / Current grade: MVS 4b*** / Length of route: 42m / Number of pitches: 2
Saves the best until last
How about you?
Do you have a favourite route or a memorable experience at Shepherd’s Crag?