My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #9: Scafell
/WRITTEN by CHRIS & ANNE ENSOLL
In this series we’re sharing Chris’s top picks of the many brilliant crags in the Lake District, and his recommended routes at each venue. Links to all the previous posts can be found at the bottom of the page.
“Scafell is the spiritual home of traditional climbing in Britain and offers some fo the best, boldest and most beautiful climbing to be found in these islands. Dark, foreboding, complex Scafell Crag holds some fo the most historic routes. In contrast, the magnificent barrel-shaped East Buttress is home to the best mountain rock-climbing above VS in England; and also some of the hardest, with the technically demanding “Welcome to the Cruel World” and the heart-stopping “Talbot Horizon” EP setting the upper limit at present.”
from Lake District Rock, Wired Guides, 2015
Joe Flanagan leading the crux pitch of Chiron on East Buttress
At 790m Scafell Crag offers the highest rock climbing in England with breathtaking views, but you have to choose your moment. For the majority of the routes to be dry, the crag needs at least a week of dry warm weather. For an enjoyable day out, you need calm, warm weather - a gentle breeze down in the valley could be a cold strong wind on the crag. The persistent hot dry weather we’ve had over the last few weeks made for perfect conditions for a trip up to the crag.
If you’re a Lord of the Rings fan, you’ll like many of the route names. There are several different climbing areas on Scafell, but my favourites are East Buttress and Scafell Crag.
East Buttress: Mickledore Grooves
A good place to start.
First climbed: 1930 / Current grade: VS 5a*** / Length of route: 67m / Number of pitches: 2
East Buttress: Leverage
Another classic route.
First climbed: 1958 / Current grade: E1 5b*** / Length of route: 48m / Number of pitches: 2
East Buttress: Ichabod
Mega classic with excellent rock and amazing positions.
First climbed: 1960/1964 / Current grade: E2 5c*** / Length of route: 45m / Number of pitches: 1
East Buttress: Chiron
Very varied climbing - technical, strenuous, all in a fantastic position.
First climbed: 1990 / Current grade: E3 5c** / Length of route: 77m / Number of pitches: 4
Chris Moore leading Edge of Eriador on East Buttress
East Buttress: Edge of Eriador
An inspiring line. The main pitch is described in the guide book as notoriously bold.
First climbed: 1977 / Current grade: E4 6a*** / Length of route: 57m / Number of pitches: 2
East Buttress: Zeya
I haven’t climbed this route, but I’m told it is good if you’re climbing at this grade.
First climbed: 1983 / Current grade: E6 6b*** / Length of route: 48m / Number of pitches: 2
Scafell Crag: Botterill’s Slab
The obvious place to start on Scafell Crag - great positions and an amazing history
First climbed: 1903 / Current grade: VS 4c*** / Length of route: 87m / Number of pitches: 3
Scafell Crag: Moss Ghyll Grooves
Another great route with more fantastic positions, not overly difficult but not for the timid either.
First climbed: 1926 / Current grade: MVS 4c*** / Length of route: 79m / Number of pitches: 4
With Chris Moore at the top of Edge of Eriador on East Buttress with Scafell Pike behind
Scafell Crag: Central Buttress
Possibly the most famous rock climb in the country
First climbed: 1914 / Current grade: E1 5a*** / Length of route: 124m / Number of pitches: 4
Scafell Crag: Saxon
A magnificent climb with a strenuous main pitch.
First climbed: 1976 / Current grade: E2 5c*** / Length of route: 108m / Number of pitches: 3
Scafell Pinnacle on Scafell Crag: Jones Route Direct
Another classic, one of the first routes to be climbed on Scafell.
First climbed: 1898 / Current grade: HS** / Length of route: 54m / Number of pitches: 4
Guide books
Lake District Rock, Wired Guides, 2015
What about you?
Do you have a favourite route on Scafell? We’d lover to hear from you - leave a comment below.
Read the rest of the series
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #1: Raven Crag, Langdale
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #2: Dow Crag, Coniston
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #3: Gimmer Crag, Langdale
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #4: Wallowbarrow Crag in the Duddon Valley
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #5: Shepherd’s Crag, Borrowdale
My Top 10 Favourite Lakeland Crags #6: Bowfell, Langdale
